As the California wine industry shows signs that it may be on the verge of beginning a new chapter, there are a few individuals that stand poised to be liaisons who will usher it in. One of the houses leading the charge to a new way of thinking is that of Robert Sinskey Vineyards.
Robert Sinskey Vineyards
In April, when our restaurant closed for eight days for remodeling, a group of twenty of us from A16 (the Neapolitan restaurant in San Francisco at which I am employed http://www.a16sf.com) had the pleasure of being invited to enjoy an afternoon at the winery of Robert Sinskey Vineyards in Napa, CA. Robert and his wife Maria Helm Sinskey often stop by the restaurant when they are in San Francisco. To quote Maria: “It’s our favorite restaurant in San Francisco. I know I can get a good meal. I love to see all of you (our A16 family). And, it is a convenient stop.” Indeed it is the last part of town passed through before hopping on the Golden Gate Bridge and heading north. To quote Rob: “Isn’t there another restaurant in San Francisco?” To say they were gracious hosts would be a vast understatement.
It was a perfectly casual experience as restaurant people and dirt farmers came together. It always makes me immediately comfortable when the first “F Bomb” is dropped. Thanks Rob! Upon arrival, we were greeted by Rob (Robert Sinskey), proprietor and vintner, and Jeff Virnig the longtime winemaker. The staff buzzed with glasses of Muscat Blanc and hors d’oeuvres of ham quiche and fried oyster sliders- delicious! The wine was really pretty and typical of the varietal: aromatic, crisp and clean, with racy acidity. Rob said he was required to distinguish Muscat “blanc” on the label, but stated there were no plans to plant any Muscat Rouge (yes, it exists)… Ah, wine nerd jokes. As an aside to my A16 people, Rouge=Rosso.
The weather could not have been more perfect: a beautifully warm spring day with low humidity. The skies were clear and the view was stunning. They served as backdrop for the ultra-inviting family style banquet table set up on the RSV patio.
We hung out and mingled on the patio for awhile as our friend Ryan’s “best friend” Lola and the Sinskeys’ Portugeuse Water Pooch Paolo became fast friends exchanging many nudges and noses while they got to know eachother.
The best friends: Paolo and Lola
Our Muscat Blanc glasses were refilled with dry Pinot Gris before heading off to the cellar for barrel tasting. We tasted two Pinot Noir from different blocks, of the same vintage and barrel treatment. The 2008 Vandal Vineyard (named for an incident involving a tractor, a wake of destruction, and those damn _____ boys) was riveting with dark fruits and searing acidity. The acid will no doubt calm down a bit after some age, but for my money, this is exactly what I want. The next Pinot Noir was from a block used in the “Three Amigos” bottling. Tasty and more supple, this will please those looking for a softer wine with elegant fruit. We followed this with a sample of the Bordeaux blend “Marciene” (Old French for Martian). Uncharicteristically Napa in it’s approach the wine was not excessively oaked or high in alcohol. Full of earth, forest and dried fruits, this wine hearkened it’s Right Bank Bordeaux style blend (Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon – percentages undisclosed and “unimportant”).
The Philosophy
Rob approached Jeff in 1991 wanting to move to organic methods on the farm. Jeff’s response was “Only if it means that I can make better wine.” Rob took a couple more weeks to research, during which time he was turned on to the theories of Rudolf Steiner’s biodynamics (blog to come on this subject). At the notion of steps far beyond the reaches of conventional organics and the wild success of these practices in Europe, Rob and Jeff decided to implement the biodynamic method at RSV. Biodynamics treats the land as a living organism and follows the belief that everything is connected.
Shelley Lindgren of A16 listening to Rob
Starting with blank ground
The idea that one can just switch their farm to organics is a farse. The manufactured methods that are used to treat pests of both the plant and animal kingdoms not only remove said organisms from the land but also strip the land of vital nutrients. Typically this is what prompts the need for all the other tricks of the trade that go along with the addition of unnatural components to the land. That said, when making the switch, one is essentially starting with blank ground. Not only are there no “pests,” but the nutrients and conditions needed to sustain life naturally are also absent. When I asked Rob how long it took to return to a viable crop, he begrudgingly, but proudly, stated “ten years.”
Check out this video on the RSV Philosophy!!!!
http://www.robertsinskey.com/PointOfView/Organic
“Funny expression, “dirt farmer.” Until recently, I never really gave its meaning much thought. Precious little in agriculture is controllable. What we can control is the dirt. Rob’s philosophy that “Wine is not an athletic event,” still holds true to this day. Rob believes that wine should not be a “quick study,” but rather, sneak up on you, seduce you, and evolve…” – http://www.robertsinskey.com
Through this process the land has experienced a renewed sense of biodiversity. The Sinskeys have begun to raise many of their own animals and other crops in addition to grapes. Their sheep mow and fertilize the vineyards. The chickens follow up to scratch the surface and prune the vines. Much of the rest of their food comes from the surrounding farms of their immediate neighbors. It is Rob’s goal to continue to push closer to sustainability and self-sufficiency.
I had the distinct pleasure of being able to sit next to Rob at the dinner table and bend his ear on all sorts of issues. The conversation was enlightening. The company was wonderful. The food was superb.
The family table on the patio of Robert Sinskey Vineyards
The Meal
Spring Salad of Artichoke, Asparagus, Farm Egg and Shaved Parmesan. Paired with Abraxas, Vin de Terroir, Scintilla Sonoma Vineyard, Los Carneros 2008
Potato Gnocchi with Sweet Peas, Pancetta and Garden Herbs. Paired with Pinot Noir, Three Amigos Vineyard, Los Carneros, Napa Valley 2005
Roasted Pork Rack with Spring Onions and Morels. Paired with POV, Napa Valley 2005 and Marcien, Proprietary Red, Los Carneros, Napa Valley 2005
Broccoli with Chili and Lemon
Rhubarb Galette with Sweet Vanilla Cream. Paired with Pinot Gris Late, A Late Harvest Pinot Gris, Los Carneros 2005
Asparagus with farm egg
We are beginning to ease off the reigns of wine “making” and starting to embrace more hands-off methods. Over-oaking, extra long maceration (time on the grape skins), over-ripening, and micro-oxygenation (aka more oak, more fruit, more booze, softer wines) are all becoming less present. It’s not that oak is an inherently unpleasant flavor, but a barrel always tastes like a barrel. What I mean to say is that, as the spice of the dish it can be quite nice, but it too often tends to be the main ingredient. When the dominant flavors of oak and high alcohol trump the subtler aspects of a wine than we cover up characteristics that differentiate one wine from another. Vintage variation is a beautiful thing as a wine expresses itself differently from one year to another. The idea is to take the wine making out of the lab and return to the dirt. If we are good to the land, it will tell us what we need to do.
Where I had enjoyed many of the Sinskey wines in the past, I had not had personal experience with all of them. They were refined and beautiful. They expressed their place, and they were great with our food.
Thanks Rob, Jeff, Maria and crew! When a day like this can be such a learning experience, such a beautiful coming together of friends, and such a perfect catharsis, one thought comes to mind…. It’s a good life we lead.
Thanks to Janis Bell for the additional photography.
CorkDork 